The Okanagan Valley has a complex geological history that I am going to ignore in this entry. The upshot is that it has steep sides and flat terraces that are somewhat frustrating to the average cyclist as Highway 97 goes up and down a fair bit between Penticton and Kelowna which is quite provoking as they are at the same altitude in the same valley! However all fairness, the 97 does try to make the rises and falls as long as possible so you can stay in the same mode for sustained periods. (This later had a downside.)
As the distance was shortish, I allowed myself to stop fairly frequently along the way at things such as historical markers and fruit stands. After lunch in West Kelowna, I went screaming down towards the Bridge to Kelowna passing some construction by the side of the road which distracted me long enough that I saw the sign for the bike route across the Bridge too late and it was only after the sign forbidding bikes on the road proper had passed that I could bring Leonardo to a halt, just as an RCMP patrol car went by and then braked. It didn't stop or turn on its "cherry blinkers", but suspecting I had been spotted, decided to lift Leonardo over the concrete divider to where I should have been rather than go back up and around. While I did so, I practiced my defense in case the Law did come around! ;-)
Anyway, I made my way across the bridge and to Rebecca and Paul's house. After supper, Paul told me about some of his childhood train trips. It turns out that his grandfather had been a VP at Union Pacific and had the use of their private cars. Naturally, he used it to entertain his grand kids. He also used his connections to insure that when Paul and his brother got beyond first class treatment when they traveled on Amtrak! At this, a light went on above my head. Paul's grandfather's position explained the "Union Pacific" decor in the bedroom I was assigned!
Rebecca was working from home this morning, so she was around to give me a local's perspective on which of Kelowna's many wineries were the best bets. After some discussion, I headed off for a day wine tasting. The first three were low key and landed me some interesting wines (thankfully there is no duty on alcohol within Canada) but the fourth, Summerhill Pyramid, got on my nerves with its holier-than-thou organic this and permaculture that. It was also more commercial and much more crowded than the others.
As I rode towards the downtown area the primary schools began to let out. I was joined on the road by a surprisingly and pleasantly large number of kids on bikes. What I found particularly interesting was that at a glance, many of them seemed to be "good bikes" (including road bikes) not just the big box store bikes I tend to see kids riding in Montreal. Furthermore, they knew the rules of the road!
Shortly before I got downtown, I stopped to consult my maps to figure out how best to get to my next destination. A man whose age I would put anywhere within ten years of seventy asked me if was lost.
"No, I know where I am. I am just trying figure out where to go next."
"Go to Mount [something], that's my favourite ride!"
I laughed. I rather like the attitude of this town!
A couple distilleries later, I am back at Rebecca's, soon to dine. It's been a good holiday. Back to Montreal tomorrow.
Friday, 26 September 2014
On my day in Penticton
Penticton doesn't get much rain. Somewhere I read that it is part of the Sonoran Desert region which goes all the way down to Mexico which alternately plausible or risible depending on how you look at it. I probably need to check my facts, but that can wait as the Okanagan is definitely a dry zone.
This fact was proven to me by the display of chain lubricants at my favorite bike store in Penticton, Freedom the Bike Shop. They had an assortment of Finish Line products but didn't carry my default lubricant Finish Line Wet. I commented on this to the staff as I waited for them to check Leonardo's rear tire. They said there wasn't much call for it. Probably true.
Why do I mention this? Well, I was there on a relatively rare, wet, rainy day with plenty of wind. It didn't rain all day but enough to make my visit atypically damp. I spent the morning looking after my steed including getting spare inner tubes and washing my clothes in the hostel's washer-dryer.
In the afternoon, I bummed around, seeing the sights and observing the contrasts of the town. Pentiction has an odd mix of tourists, seasonal labour (needed for the fruit industry), alternative culture members and bums. Some people fall into multiple categories. I shared a hostel room with a dread-locked German who had just finished a four day hike and was discussing about where he would be picking apples the next day with an older American man who sounded knowledgeable about the industry!
The clouds were low and somewhat menacing. As the forecast was for more of the same the next day, I determined that I would take the easy way to Kelowna, e.g. Highway 97. This also allowed me to indulge in a bit of shopping in a used book store that I would have done otherwise.
This fact was proven to me by the display of chain lubricants at my favorite bike store in Penticton, Freedom the Bike Shop. They had an assortment of Finish Line products but didn't carry my default lubricant Finish Line Wet. I commented on this to the staff as I waited for them to check Leonardo's rear tire. They said there wasn't much call for it. Probably true.
Why do I mention this? Well, I was there on a relatively rare, wet, rainy day with plenty of wind. It didn't rain all day but enough to make my visit atypically damp. I spent the morning looking after my steed including getting spare inner tubes and washing my clothes in the hostel's washer-dryer.
In the afternoon, I bummed around, seeing the sights and observing the contrasts of the town. Pentiction has an odd mix of tourists, seasonal labour (needed for the fruit industry), alternative culture members and bums. Some people fall into multiple categories. I shared a hostel room with a dread-locked German who had just finished a four day hike and was discussing about where he would be picking apples the next day with an older American man who sounded knowledgeable about the industry!
The clouds were low and somewhat menacing. As the forecast was for more of the same the next day, I determined that I would take the easy way to Kelowna, e.g. Highway 97. This also allowed me to indulge in a bit of shopping in a used book store that I would have done otherwise.
Wednesday, 24 September 2014
On how I got to Penticton
I opted to take the Highway to Penticton rather than the Princeton-Summerland road and/or KVR route as I had done much of it five years ago and the scenery wasn't terribly memorable. Also, that route put the hardest bits near the end of the day, the same time rain would be likely. In hindsight, I made the right decision.
Highway 3 runs down the bottom the valley of the Similkameen in wide sweeps with the canyon walls rising steeply on either side. The road ran smoothly downwards, generally with nice shoulders for biking. I could tell the route was well used by cyclists of the road racer variety, unfortunately. I used that word as they left their spoor behind, in the form of used CO2 bottles. I am not impressed.
I stopped at Hedley* for a look see of an old mine located several thousand feet up on precipitous cliff side. It made me wonder at the determination of the miners. There are tours of it in summer. Part of me would like to go back and do the tour.
I rolled on to Keremeos where I found an Indian buffet for lunch which had great nan bread. I stopped at an old grist mill but didn't go in. As I was about to leave, noticed my rear tire was flat, again! The cause was apparently a piece of glass. I went back into Keremeos in search of a replacement inner tube as I was now without a spare and my confidence in the rear tire was shot. I found a bike shop by dint of flagging down a local cyclist who showed me the way to the Sagebrush Bike Shop which was run out someone's garage. I got a Presta tube for a skinnier (up to 23mm) tire as that was all he had in the way of 700C Prestas. I then rode up Highway 3A towards Penticton as clouds gathered threateningly behind me. The climb wasn't bad and was followed by repeated and prolonged "whees" at speeds exceeding 60 kph. I alternated between taking the lane at speed and pulling aside to let larger traffic through as the shoulder wasn't very good for high speeds. From the bottom of the hill, it was a shortish and easy ride into Penticton.
* I kept revisiting the Heddy/Hedley Lamarr joke from Blazing Saddles in my head.
Highway 3 runs down the bottom the valley of the Similkameen in wide sweeps with the canyon walls rising steeply on either side. The road ran smoothly downwards, generally with nice shoulders for biking. I could tell the route was well used by cyclists of the road racer variety, unfortunately. I used that word as they left their spoor behind, in the form of used CO2 bottles. I am not impressed.
I stopped at Hedley* for a look see of an old mine located several thousand feet up on precipitous cliff side. It made me wonder at the determination of the miners. There are tours of it in summer. Part of me would like to go back and do the tour.
I rolled on to Keremeos where I found an Indian buffet for lunch which had great nan bread. I stopped at an old grist mill but didn't go in. As I was about to leave, noticed my rear tire was flat, again! The cause was apparently a piece of glass. I went back into Keremeos in search of a replacement inner tube as I was now without a spare and my confidence in the rear tire was shot. I found a bike shop by dint of flagging down a local cyclist who showed me the way to the Sagebrush Bike Shop which was run out someone's garage. I got a Presta tube for a skinnier (up to 23mm) tire as that was all he had in the way of 700C Prestas. I then rode up Highway 3A towards Penticton as clouds gathered threateningly behind me. The climb wasn't bad and was followed by repeated and prolonged "whees" at speeds exceeding 60 kph. I alternated between taking the lane at speed and pulling aside to let larger traffic through as the shoulder wasn't very good for high speeds. From the bottom of the hill, it was a shortish and easy ride into Penticton.
* I kept revisiting the Heddy/Hedley Lamarr joke from Blazing Saddles in my head.
On a successful Princeton to Penticton ride
I have arrived in Penticton, non sans peine. I am zonked, but I can now say I have crossed British Columbia by bike from Victoria with the necessary exceptions, viz the ferries from Vancouver Island and across Lake Kootenay and the Massey Tunnel bike shuttle. More later.
Monday, 22 September 2014
On familiar sights
Highway 5A took me today through rolling country with relatively low hills. Almost surprisingly, there were extensive stands of deciduous trees (poplars and birches, I think) whose yellows made a pleasant contrast to all the conifers and grasslands of the last few days.
However, the road seemed strangely tough for reasons I hope are due to the poor sleep I got last night. Just before Guildford Lake, the road dove into the narrow canyon of Alison Creek which alternated between small lakes and "whee" drops with walls of conifers on either side. This was quite a relief and boost to my spirits.
I began to see familiar sights. The first of this were DCT Chambers double tractor trailers hauling wood chips. These were a feature of my last trip. At the time, I wrote a blog entry about the redundancy of the name as the "C" stands for "Chambers". Princeton is another familiar sight along with the Crowsnest Highway (Hwy 3). I am writing this in the same pub where I ate in 2009.
I went into the tourist information to get the lastest on the forest fire ("out and no issues") and the weather conditions. The latter led me to opt for an alternate plan to push on to Penticton tomorrow rather than spend a rest day here. Princeton is boring compared to Penticton and the forecast is better for tomorrow (Tuesday) than for Wednesday. The lady behind the counter asked about my trip. When she heard it was "only" five days of biking, she said I was more reasonable than those "people who start in Victoria and ride across the province." I raised my hand and confessed to having been one of them! She was amused.
Speaking of alternate plans, leaving Merritt, I was on the combined Highways 97C and 5A. The latter is the major route connecting the Coquihalla and the Okanagan Valley. The signs listed a doable distance directly to Kelowna. I mused if I should skip Princeton. Thankfully, I didn't as somone (not the former cyclist) at the Guildford Lake rest stop mentioned that I had avoided a tough pass on the 97C.
I am debating if tomorrow I should take the route I failed to finish in 2009 or go by more established roads. The distance is more less the same. The principle of seeking out new sights encourages me to take the latter route, but pride says the former. La nuit portera conseil.
However, the road seemed strangely tough for reasons I hope are due to the poor sleep I got last night. Just before Guildford Lake, the road dove into the narrow canyon of Alison Creek which alternated between small lakes and "whee" drops with walls of conifers on either side. This was quite a relief and boost to my spirits.
I began to see familiar sights. The first of this were DCT Chambers double tractor trailers hauling wood chips. These were a feature of my last trip. At the time, I wrote a blog entry about the redundancy of the name as the "C" stands for "Chambers". Princeton is another familiar sight along with the Crowsnest Highway (Hwy 3). I am writing this in the same pub where I ate in 2009.
I went into the tourist information to get the lastest on the forest fire ("out and no issues") and the weather conditions. The latter led me to opt for an alternate plan to push on to Penticton tomorrow rather than spend a rest day here. Princeton is boring compared to Penticton and the forecast is better for tomorrow (Tuesday) than for Wednesday. The lady behind the counter asked about my trip. When she heard it was "only" five days of biking, she said I was more reasonable than those "people who start in Victoria and ride across the province." I raised my hand and confessed to having been one of them! She was amused.
Speaking of alternate plans, leaving Merritt, I was on the combined Highways 97C and 5A. The latter is the major route connecting the Coquihalla and the Okanagan Valley. The signs listed a doable distance directly to Kelowna. I mused if I should skip Princeton. Thankfully, I didn't as somone (not the former cyclist) at the Guildford Lake rest stop mentioned that I had avoided a tough pass on the 97C.
I am debating if tomorrow I should take the route I failed to finish in 2009 or go by more established roads. The distance is more less the same. The principle of seeking out new sights encourages me to take the latter route, but pride says the former. La nuit portera conseil.
On a tiring day
I am in Princeton but Internet coverage is limited, so this will be shortish. The day began with a bannock breakfast sandwich at the Kekuli Bannock Café. Their bannock is a damn sight better than mine. It puts Timmy's breakfast biscuit sandwichs in the shade.
I had a sweaty climb out of the Nicola Valley that seemed to take forever. The only good thing was finding a Blu-ray container with the disk intact alongside the road. Unfortunately, it was for a movie called "The Conjuring" which doesn't interest me! ;-)
Beyond the ridge top, Highway 5A wound along under increasingly cloudy and colder skies which eventually gave rise to sprinkling rain. At Guildford Lake rest stop, I stopped to investigate a suspected slow leak. There was a leak (lakes are useful for finding leaks) and an obvious cause which I dealt with. While I was working, a truck pulling a horse and bedroom trailer pulled up and its three human occupants led three horses out to stretch their legs, have a drink and graze on the local vegetation! A little later, an older couple pulled up for a pit stop for them and their two dogs. The man regaled me with tales of having crossed Canada by bike in 1969 and of having travelled by train in Newfoundland in 1981.
Penticton tomorrow is the plan.
I had a sweaty climb out of the Nicola Valley that seemed to take forever. The only good thing was finding a Blu-ray container with the disk intact alongside the road. Unfortunately, it was for a movie called "The Conjuring" which doesn't interest me! ;-)
Beyond the ridge top, Highway 5A wound along under increasingly cloudy and colder skies which eventually gave rise to sprinkling rain. At Guildford Lake rest stop, I stopped to investigate a suspected slow leak. There was a leak (lakes are useful for finding leaks) and an obvious cause which I dealt with. While I was working, a truck pulling a horse and bedroom trailer pulled up and its three human occupants led three horses out to stretch their legs, have a drink and graze on the local vegetation! A little later, an older couple pulled up for a pit stop for them and their two dogs. The man regaled me with tales of having crossed Canada by bike in 1969 and of having travelled by train in Newfoundland in 1981.
Penticton tomorrow is the plan.
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