The Newfoundlander tendency to chat and gossip delayed departure somewhat. Also, rather than leaving Ferryland directly, I left three bags at the B&B and rode out to the lighthouse.
Along the way, I saw some of the archeologists at work on the Colony of Avalon site.
A little further, I saw a whale surface just inside the harbour, known locally as the Pool. Oh another minke. Wait a minute, I can see very long white fins on either side.
Stop.
Grab camera.
Take a picture of the humpback whale.
Not one iota of doubt that the cetacean in question was other than a megaptera novaeangliae or mega-winged New Englander.
I just checked my camera and I got a good shot that shows the long white fins. Unfortunately, I can't post it until get to computer.
It was very cool to see and know that I'd seen such an iconic animal. I had heard that humpbacks were in the area but I didn't think I'd see one so close to shore.
The first half of the day was more of the same: steep hills in succession and head winds. After Cappahayden, the road went inland and into gently rising moorlands and headwinds. It was getting colder and I donned a jacket.
Near the top of a rise I saw another cyclist come into view going the other way. We stopped to chat. He was from St-John's and was doing the Irish Loop as a short camping tour. He expressed surprise that he hadn't seen any other cyclists. I voiced my recently formed opinion that most cyclists had more sense than to try it. He was amused at my grumbling.
He was obviously an enthusiastic Newfoundland cycle-tourist and suggested that Deer Lake to Anse-Aux-Meadows was a great ride with predictable tailwind. I asked how one would get back. He indicated one simply put the bike on the bus. Idea for another time.
A little further, the land started to descend to the sea at Portugal Cove South. Still going against the wind, I rolled down to very welcome visitor centre where I got a hot chocolate which I sipped in a chair in the lobby area as the display area said no food or drink. One of the older ladies at the desk asked me why I didn't go in? I pointed out the sign. She told me to go in anyway. The displays dealt mostly with the Mistaken Point fossil beds (UNESCO heritage site). It also dealt with local history and shipwrecks connected with Cape Race. The Titanic was one of them thanks to the local radio station which was the first to receive its distress signals.
There was a board on the wall with the recent wildlife sightings. These included "capelin roiling" on the nearby beach. I set out for said beach (it was on my way). The capelin were no longer roiling or spawning, and in fact not doing anything except rotting. Now I knew what the whales had been after.
It wasn't too long after that, that I got to Trepassey.
Tomorrow will be a long day, but I should be getting some tailwinds. Here's to hoping.
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